Beats for La Boca

An incredible and enriching day and one I will find difficult to put into words. Today, I visited La Boca, a somewhat impoverished but wonderful area of BA. I went with the aim of seeing a local radio programme in action but I took a lot more away from the experience. If grass roots had a definition, it would be this exact spot, with the exact colourful murals on the walls and in the exact basic set up in the attic of an old building in what looked remarkably like a car park.  In the cold and humid conditions of early spring, it could have been a nightmare invitation but instead, I sat down over a yerba mate to talk about the fascinating and relatively fresh project that the community has established to give locals a voice or as the operator said ' donde caben todas voces'.  And all voices fit in this place, even that of Mel, a German volunteer, who kicked off the show with a description of the weekend charity 'marathon' run (a 5km shortened version of the real thing :)  And this radio station in the heart of the people's barrio supports foreigners who wish to volunteer, recognising the need to harmonise, collectivise and come together not only to act against political neglect but also to stay true to community. There is a mini but significant revolution happening within the painted walls of this attic, dotted with satirical animations and reminders of Che Guevara's infamous motto of 'hasta la victoria para siempre'. This radio laughs at propaganda and smiles at truth, not forgetting the country's harsh past, the ashes of which still glow beneath the energy and voices of this community.
If they need a 'vivienda digna' or decent living conditions, they will fight for it through every channel possible and they have helped to mobilise their people to claim their right to live. Live better, live well. All with a great sense of humour, a few cups of mate and a divine playlist. A brilliant crowd and one I will never forget.

Rumbo Sur

As I celebrate half a week here in Buenos Aires, the multiple projects I have in mind here are gathering force. Today, I had meetings with the guys at Rumbo Sur, an NGO and an organisation seeking to preserve Argentinian culture as well indigenous Latin american culture through film, literature and online presence. Ex advertising guru and graphic designer, Pablo Rey, is passionate about the project and has poured his heart into finding funding for  award-winning films and stunning photography collections. We talked about recent projects- the success of the photography collection based on the communities in Charco, the beautifully illustrated book about Porteno urban myths, all sourced straight from the older generation's mouths in true oral tradition, the book about social funding providing opportunities for financially disadvantaged but hugely talented entrepreneurs and much much more.
I am stunned by the number of the projects this association tackles and am keen to help in any way I can. Pablo has asked me to become more involved whilst I am here, perhaps even helping out with his next film. We will see but I am so excited that I am ignoring the terrible weather that keeps my cold well and truly alive.
Here is the link to the organisation for those interested:

http://www.rumbosur.org.ar/RumboSur/inicio.html

Taking on BA

Today was the first day of the project and this meant meetings with the organisation as well as the volunteers. The 20 or so projects in and around BA were explained in detail and we were each assigned our personal project, as well as the activities we are expected to carry out. The organisation is more of a cooperative of many organisations and projects working to improve the lives of disadvantaged communities in BA.  They are unique in character and include youth projects aiming to get young people into work and finding new ways to fund their future studies. There are also not-for profit orphanages, schools, hospitals and many more. It was incredible to hear the stories of those involved, the role the volunteer plays and the overall objectives of the NGO. Of course, my part is small and seemingly insignificant but our help and contribution play a wider role, one which I hope I can steal a glance throughout my time here on the communications team. My role as observer of all the projects across the board means that perhaps I get to dig a little deeper than most to assess the validity of these projects and measure in some way their sustainability long-term.

touch down

Finally, after many false hopes and tail-chasing, I managed to get hold of an adaptor to accompany my best traveling friend, the MAC and can at long last share some impressions. I arrived a few days ago; tired, excited and decidedly overwhelmed by the enormity of such a trip. As the plane circled over the misty morning view of Buenos Aires,  I was able to acknowledge the sheer size and beauty of the view beneath me and something stirred. I wanted to know more...

My studio is a gorgeous mix of cosy and cool and I love that it is tucked away in residential Recoleta, where portenos roam freely alongside their urban puppies and elegant friends. I am in the thick of the middle classes on Austria street with some quaint little cafes on French street and phenomenal embassies and grandiose buildings a block away.  A far cry from trendy Palermo but quieter than the dizzying heights of downtown. The perfect mix. And although adapting to the changes of season, time, food and people has been hard (I caught a horrible cold which prevented the letter M from ever uttering my congested self), I have seen some truly wonderful parts of this city. Highlights include the Malba ( contemporary art Argentine style) where an installation of disappearing lights had me confused but intrigued, Palermo Viejo which should perhaps join the ranks of cultural heritage sights and is by far my preferred location to hang out and practice the almost long lost yoga I so adored back home (!) and of course San Telmo on a Sunday. I have been spoiled by scenes I could previously only imagine in films and have been encouraged by locals to take up the romantic dance of tango as soon as I find a milonga willing to take such a debutante on. Exciting times... but of course, I miss you all and homesickness really does happen. It is not just the jetlag or too much Yerba Mate :)

the wait

When I woke up this morning, the feeling was hard to shake off. It wasn't just the start of the week, it was my last full day in London ahead of the big viaje to the south of the americas. Hard to even fathom when life has been on such rotation for so long. The difference is amazing and I keep having to pinch myself to check that it is all actually real. So today is about wrapping my head around the travels ahead and also wrapping up the very last of the material objects which, for one reason or another, have made the shortlist to accompany me there. Vitals like camera and a pair of tango shoes are unquestionable but the rest? I am beginning to think I should just start from scratch with the clothes on me and I will dance into the city with my tango shoes already worn in from the journey, ready to burn their fiery heels in the first place they see.

On second thoughts, maybe I will take a case :) 

shedding layers

I have started to sort through the innumerable clothes I have, realising with each irrelevant top and each indistinct skirt just how much I have accumulated over the years. It is the perfect moment to do away with it, to adhere to the useful minimalism that many are already happily doing with no regrets. I look forward to a time when I don't feel crowded or stifled by it all; the somewhat useless comfort blankets we choose to own when the rest of us doesn't feel quite right; the endless need to fit in with people who they themselves are just fitting in. So, out go the various patterns of my material existence these last few years and in comes experience, travel and new perspectives. I am shedding layers and gaining strength. And if the strength doesn't come, I'm sure to come across an H and M somewhere :)