ocho por atras

It has been a particularly cumbersome week, with a broken phone, a painful ear, issues with the flat's electricity so no cooking and a general feeling that something bad was going to happen. However, the thing that most shocked me was last night, as a couple of friends and I exited the milonga after a night of dancing with our hearts and walked to the car to go home. On arrival, we all realised that someone had stolen Pablo's wheel, which was not surprising in itself. Actually, it was the reaction of my two friends, expert portenos, who just sighed and didn't react, fully aware that this is a daily occurrence. Laura said that had we parked on the other side of the street, where a little more light was coming from a nearby building, then it never would have happened. Incredible but it showed that these thieves cannot take the porteno spirit away, that hours in a milonga suffices to wash over these hideous happenings.
Of course, I had a great night and danced in the intermediate group, where I learnt more tango steps. After a long week visiting projects and translating, I was ready to let off some steam.

ouch

I have been absent from the blog for a couple of days as I have an ear infection and am taking antibiotics, which is never a particularly pleasant feeling. The doc thinks that it is due to the changes of climate ( they have 95%) humidity here and I am probably very sensitive to the changes of season, going from the start of autumn to the start of a particularly cold and unpleasant spring. I am recuperating and working from home on some translations for a wonderful man from Rumbo Sur, one of the organisations I am working with. He compiled a book of photos and texts about the people of the Chaco region and I am translating it for him. It is a fascinating story, one which reminds me what colonialism truly did to the area and how some parts of history and tradition cannot be eradicated, despite attempts from the Spanish conquistadores for so long. A brave indigenous crowd of people. I will, of course, put the link up when it is ready....

Barracas kindergarten

a day with little people in Barracas

Playfulness and bursts of colour define this pretty, pink kindergarten in Barracas and despite the relentless rain, the children were full of excitement and fun. A rock of the plastic horse, a play on the roundabout or  just a giggle amongst friends is all it takes for these children to feel cared for.

Of course, there is the odd tear and familiar situations play out in front of me; a little girl crosses her arms in a sulk as she sees a boy take her chance to play on the rocking horse; a boy cries because his mother is next door preparing food and he has decided it is time to see her. 

However, it is mostly just smiles and as i look at their painted handprints on the walls, I understand why this place is so important to them.

The volunteers are on hand to help with any rifts between the children and to help keep the peace. I marvel at their composure and it is clear that their two eyes act as twenty to keep this place running smoothly. You see, when you are four years old or so, your emotions tend to run high but unlike adults, a quick manoeuvre on a yellow, plastic slide is enough to turn things around.

The rooms are small, clean and splashed with colour. There are three main rooms and each one has its own character; a calming room with the curtains drawn, a games room full of boisterous toddlers and a playful but rather quiet room full of what some would call the terrible twos. This is where Lovisa, a swedish volunteer, sits and helps out. She explains that this is where she feels most comfortable, given that these children do not speak yet and her spanish is not quite up to the speed of the older kids. She adores it here and you can see why. The toddlers hug her and recognise her as part of the place and although she is not in charge, she keeps the kids smiling and happy. Of course, there are many different personalities in the room and she has to be watchful to pay attention to all equally. Some shy away whilst others bounce all around her. It is a mixed bag with noise and laughter very much in the mix.

The most impactful part about this place is the very lack of fancy toys and equipment yet the sheer joy of the kids.  You hear 'hay que compartir' as children are urged to share out the limited materials in the rooms.  Some are content to carry cardboard boxes around, others jump in and out of plastic crates whilst others use plastic skittles as drumsticks. It is as simple as it gets and yet it works.

My job as a teacher back home means I have a personal connection to this little, cosy school and I hope to return soon. Perhaps on a sunnier day, the kids will be even happier? 

technological hitch

Today was a very productive work day and lots of projects on the menu, including translation, short film, articles (it turns out people are reading my articles on the NGO website -eek!) but this was largely overshadowed by the big monster of a techy hitch that is an iPhone breaking in Argentina. In my western head, I did not think much of it at first and assumed (wrongly) that taking it to an Apple store would fix it all nicely. When I got to the store (appropriately named Macstation) I quickly realised that Argentina does not deal in iPhones and fixing them is even more of an issue. The kind lady tried to restore it from her mac but this failed and I ended up taking it to a dodgy dead-end repair shop in the hope that they may be able to whisk me quickly back to the land of the living.  I have until tomorrow to find a back-up plan in case the slightly off-record, illegal dealings don't pull off. Maybe my dreams will come up with something.

Milongas

Another milonga night and my tango steps are improving. Once the fear is gone and you realise that there are even porteños who don't have a clue, it becomes more breezy. I met a film director last night who has just made a film about the resurgence of tango in local milongas. He told me the history of this sensual dance and was so passionate that it made me feel like dancing until three am.  Still searching for those tango shoes and maybe like Dorothy from Kansas, this will miraculously whisk my dancing feet to a level I can be proud of :)

Frivolity

I went to a gorgeous champagne bar at the Hotel Alvear in Recoleta last night. To be honest, it could have been an old wine bar in London and it had that cosy, European atmosphere that slotted me straight in. I met some friends of friends and everyone is so friendly. They immediately invite you to the next party and so it continues.... It's true what they say about Latinos. They really can move in any context, even standing around an intimate setting. Their hips don't lie.