There is a new group of chefs based in Paris, who, as I understand it, have rejected all notions of haute cuisine and are very much anti-michelin in their style. So much so, that they have invented their own guide called Le Fooding (reminding me very much of the neither here nor there expression of le caravaning) which represents, in actual fact, the food itself along with the feeling it engenders. Basically, they are the cheapskate version of all those posh and garlickyer than thou French restaurants which nobody can ever afford..
check out full info here:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/feb/13/lefooding-paris-chefs-bistronomy
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