Keeping healthy in BA

When i first arrived here as a volunteer, I became aware that staying fit and healthy whilst working on the projects was going to be important but perhaps a little difficult. It is not that portenos don’t stay fit but they just do it slightly differerently, so I decided to take a look into it. Here are the tips I would recommend to stay in shape or eat healthily:

1. If you like outdoor running, then BA doesn’t do badly. I have had some great moments out in the Bosques de Palermo ( nearest station plaza italia) where you can run, rollerblade and bike for miles. This is a really great part of town if you just want a moment to yourself, to absorb what you have seen, read and done so far; a momentary pause to give you back a boost of energy.
2. I am a huge yoga enthusiast and when I came here, I found it hard to find a class that would suit me. It’s great for back problems or just to get you back in touch with your body if you are running around like a headless chicken trying to see and do everything at once. Your body needs a break, so if you have time, you should try ValleTierra on Plaza Armenia (the posher part of town but so great) where you can take an Iyengar yoga class and hang upside down for a while
3. Back home, I make smoothies and juices in the morning but I don’t have a machine here, so I found a few affordable options to go and get one squeezed for me. The first is called The Factory and they are a chain in both Recoleta and Palermo that do super juices. The company was started by a venezuelan/ danish couple who moved to the city realising that they needed to inject a little health awareness into the porteno population. It worked and now a lot of people go. Another one I really like is called Mango Bambo in Recoleta and they are the dons of juice. You can literally ask for anything and they will juice it up, all the while chatting and talking to you in Spanish. Thees pit stops in the city are fun and I find it easy to strike up a conversation in these cosy spots.
4. If you want to make your own healthy fare, I would suggest going to barrio chino in Belgrano where the shops are stocked with lots of products you perhaps can’t get elsewhere in the city. I have a soft spot for almond butter and they do a really good one there, along with fresh pak choi, coriander (usually a little tricky to find) and other delicious bites.
5. A really lovely afternoon can be spent on the banks of the river in Puerto Madero and for the more adventurous, you can try the Reserva just behind Puerto Madero, where green space stretches for miles. 
6. It would almost be criminal not to mention the huge craze that BA has for Crossfit. If you haven’t tried it, I would recommend it only for the die hard amongst you. It is a series of circuits that, should you actually survive a class, will make you feel like an olympic champion. I tried it and nearly died but i can see that a lot of portenos swear by it, so there must be something to it.

Dance for peace

Tonight, I was awestruck by a dance production for Unicef at the Cervantes theatre, in which many nationally famous dancers and prima ballerinas participated as an ode to all that is at this very minute affecting millions of children and their future. The dances reflected the passion of the project and I was surprised to like the argentine dance interpretation of an Ed Sheeran song, 'i see fire' the most. A Brazilian ballerina interpreted the swan's death so beautifully, she was literally falling apart gracefully.  Another famous pair paid a balletic tribute to tango in what was the most impressive set of moves i have ever seen. A greatly moving night and one which reminds me why I am here. Argentina is pure, raw and inspiring culture and every day, I feel hungry for more.

una charla

http://www.rumbosur.org.ar/RumboSur/culturaysociedad.html

Today I had a wonderful morning at Rumbosur office with Pablo, talking about the various projects he has on the go with films, books and pitches for new ideas. This organisation is just amazing and one of a kind. It spreads the voice of the indigenous, the impoverished and immigrants and is a platform and reminder that those communities not only exist and need help but are also invaluable for the preservation of Latin culture. I am fascinated by someone who has so much energy for the various projects and is consistently looking for new ones. Maybe one day I could pitch him an idea....

a little note

I haven't written tons here because things have been pretty busy. The projects are going well but I am nearly ready to let them go for a while and travel the country. Judging by the dynamism, grandeur and sheer enormity of what is on offer here in Buenos Aires, I am quite sure that the rest of the country will offer this in truck loads. Of course, I don't have the time to do it all but will attempt the south for a few days and hopefully head to Mendoza after that. I have been reading some journals about the first Polish immigrants (mama would be proud) and it turns out live in Misiones and are responsible for a large amount of yerba mate production. So, if time and resources allow it, I would love to head that way at some point. Our small island mentality makes it quite a challenge to remember the distances involved in covering a country like Argentina, so I have to tone down the hope to see absolutely everything and just go with the flow.
This weekend was busy socially, as my intermediate level tango lessons hit a high (i am still stepping on people's feet and deluding myself in the intermediate level group) and ended up dancing until 4am. The next night was spent at the Hotel Alvear, ahead of the elections on sunday. You might be as surprised as me to know that the government put a ban on alcohol after twelve the night before the elections, so this hotel was the only place in town to party! With an invite from a friend, it was a fun night. A lot of Argentine jet set dancing to Cumbia in a posh bar. Variety is the spice of life and this weekend was proof. Last night, I went to see Woody Allen's new film and finally cooked some beef.

a little kindergarten somewhere

Just a little way outside Buenos Aires in a particularly run down suburb,  is a special little kindergarten, where two French girls have taken us to see what they are doing here. When we arrive at this colourful little place, the children shout their names in unison and the Clemence and Claire respond in kind. Everyone is happy to be there and help each other out. A child falls from a monkey bar and Clemence rushes to help. The boy picks himself up an carries on without crying. 

The first thing I notice about this centre is the incredible words of encouragement all the children receive. When dogs start barking on the street, the children momentarily show fear but then realise it is nothing and carry on playing in their safe bubble. They are distracted by the constant but comparatively basic entertainment they have at their little hands; I was particularly softened by a group of little ones who were determined to help Clemence sharpen their pencils. They seem completely trusting of the volunteers and are safe and confident in their routines.

It is evident that this is a place of limited resources but they make the best of it. The children take turns to play on the swings and seem happy enough making paper planes out of old political leaflets.  I can't help but overhear a conversation that one of the helpers is having on the phone, as she talks of a fellow helper's family member who has died and they try to arrange the funeral without the alarming costs. I am left humbled by their modest situation and yet, it is obvious that each one, children and adults alike, make the most of their lot. They make it count.

As we leave to go, having whirled little toddlers on our backs and played with their toys, the helpers bring out a box of chocolate brownies as a surprise and the children are happy to leave with a treat in their hands. We leave empty handed but not empty hearted, all of us a little lifted from our day here. As we catch the bus and drive past a field filled with rubbish and rusting cars, I feel relieved that this little centre of light and fun exists in a world that can feel somewhat dark sometimes. Chatting to the two French girls on the way home, they feel much the same way and are grateful to have experienced this bit of the world and as they prepare to leave on their travels, they talk of their days here with fondness and laughter.  A slice of the perfect in the imperfect, I guess.

Masks in San Telmo

El Caminito

La Boca

One of my favourite pics from the school

Mel and I sharing a neon juice :)

The perfect mate

back in BA

For some reason, I was locked out of the site for a couple of days, so excuse the blank walls of this blog for a while. Lots of news, as usual and a whole different feel to BA as spring takes its sunny course. I spent a beautiful weekend visiting botanical gardens and sitting amongst the unique leaves of the yerba mate plant. I visited the Art Deco museum, which is actually a family home of the infamous Alvear family and it is a wondrous palace, filled to the brim with eclectic works of art, including an El Greco and a Rodin. I also stumbled across the BA photographic competition in the cultural centre, so all in all my perfect weekend, topped off with a night of whirling and twirling in the tango halls of the milonga. Despite the overdose of stinky men and slightly leachy dance partners, I  am still in awe of these places and always leave with the dramatic tones of the tango singers whirring in my head. I still don't have any tango shoes but my moves don't warrant them yet. I will keep you posted when the time comes.
In other news, I have just finished the grand translation of the Gran Chaco book, written and photographed by one of my favourite artists and people of all time- the Great Pablo Rey, who has currently asked me to translate his film about tango. A perfect match, I feel, for digging my non-existent tango heels slightly deeper into the underground scenes of the milonga here in this wild city.
I will post pics as soon as I can find a way.

strolling in style

Yesterday, I had a very special day with two friends as we walked around San Telmo sunday market, looking at all the crafts and creative exploits of Argentinians. It was inspiring, as many of these people have true talent, whether it is painting, carving, producing leather goods, jewellery. I felt giddy with how positive it made me feel that I could see it all. We then had tea inside the market to refuel and walked for hours down the River Plate, near Puerto Madero. I was suddenly transported back to good ol' blighty, as flashes of my own river flat in Hammersmith echoed the space, air and bankside of Puerto Madero. A great city, up there with all the big ones, for sure.

ocho por atras

It has been a particularly cumbersome week, with a broken phone, a painful ear, issues with the flat's electricity so no cooking and a general feeling that something bad was going to happen. However, the thing that most shocked me was last night, as a couple of friends and I exited the milonga after a night of dancing with our hearts and walked to the car to go home. On arrival, we all realised that someone had stolen Pablo's wheel, which was not surprising in itself. Actually, it was the reaction of my two friends, expert portenos, who just sighed and didn't react, fully aware that this is a daily occurrence. Laura said that had we parked on the other side of the street, where a little more light was coming from a nearby building, then it never would have happened. Incredible but it showed that these thieves cannot take the porteno spirit away, that hours in a milonga suffices to wash over these hideous happenings.
Of course, I had a great night and danced in the intermediate group, where I learnt more tango steps. After a long week visiting projects and translating, I was ready to let off some steam.

ouch

I have been absent from the blog for a couple of days as I have an ear infection and am taking antibiotics, which is never a particularly pleasant feeling. The doc thinks that it is due to the changes of climate ( they have 95%) humidity here and I am probably very sensitive to the changes of season, going from the start of autumn to the start of a particularly cold and unpleasant spring. I am recuperating and working from home on some translations for a wonderful man from Rumbo Sur, one of the organisations I am working with. He compiled a book of photos and texts about the people of the Chaco region and I am translating it for him. It is a fascinating story, one which reminds me what colonialism truly did to the area and how some parts of history and tradition cannot be eradicated, despite attempts from the Spanish conquistadores for so long. A brave indigenous crowd of people. I will, of course, put the link up when it is ready....

Barracas kindergarten

a day with little people in Barracas

Playfulness and bursts of colour define this pretty, pink kindergarten in Barracas and despite the relentless rain, the children were full of excitement and fun. A rock of the plastic horse, a play on the roundabout or  just a giggle amongst friends is all it takes for these children to feel cared for.

Of course, there is the odd tear and familiar situations play out in front of me; a little girl crosses her arms in a sulk as she sees a boy take her chance to play on the rocking horse; a boy cries because his mother is next door preparing food and he has decided it is time to see her. 

However, it is mostly just smiles and as i look at their painted handprints on the walls, I understand why this place is so important to them.

The volunteers are on hand to help with any rifts between the children and to help keep the peace. I marvel at their composure and it is clear that their two eyes act as twenty to keep this place running smoothly. You see, when you are four years old or so, your emotions tend to run high but unlike adults, a quick manoeuvre on a yellow, plastic slide is enough to turn things around.

The rooms are small, clean and splashed with colour. There are three main rooms and each one has its own character; a calming room with the curtains drawn, a games room full of boisterous toddlers and a playful but rather quiet room full of what some would call the terrible twos. This is where Lovisa, a swedish volunteer, sits and helps out. She explains that this is where she feels most comfortable, given that these children do not speak yet and her spanish is not quite up to the speed of the older kids. She adores it here and you can see why. The toddlers hug her and recognise her as part of the place and although she is not in charge, she keeps the kids smiling and happy. Of course, there are many different personalities in the room and she has to be watchful to pay attention to all equally. Some shy away whilst others bounce all around her. It is a mixed bag with noise and laughter very much in the mix.

The most impactful part about this place is the very lack of fancy toys and equipment yet the sheer joy of the kids.  You hear 'hay que compartir' as children are urged to share out the limited materials in the rooms.  Some are content to carry cardboard boxes around, others jump in and out of plastic crates whilst others use plastic skittles as drumsticks. It is as simple as it gets and yet it works.

My job as a teacher back home means I have a personal connection to this little, cosy school and I hope to return soon. Perhaps on a sunnier day, the kids will be even happier? 

technological hitch

Today was a very productive work day and lots of projects on the menu, including translation, short film, articles (it turns out people are reading my articles on the NGO website -eek!) but this was largely overshadowed by the big monster of a techy hitch that is an iPhone breaking in Argentina. In my western head, I did not think much of it at first and assumed (wrongly) that taking it to an Apple store would fix it all nicely. When I got to the store (appropriately named Macstation) I quickly realised that Argentina does not deal in iPhones and fixing them is even more of an issue. The kind lady tried to restore it from her mac but this failed and I ended up taking it to a dodgy dead-end repair shop in the hope that they may be able to whisk me quickly back to the land of the living.  I have until tomorrow to find a back-up plan in case the slightly off-record, illegal dealings don't pull off. Maybe my dreams will come up with something.

Milongas

Another milonga night and my tango steps are improving. Once the fear is gone and you realise that there are even porteños who don't have a clue, it becomes more breezy. I met a film director last night who has just made a film about the resurgence of tango in local milongas. He told me the history of this sensual dance and was so passionate that it made me feel like dancing until three am.  Still searching for those tango shoes and maybe like Dorothy from Kansas, this will miraculously whisk my dancing feet to a level I can be proud of :)

Frivolity

I went to a gorgeous champagne bar at the Hotel Alvear in Recoleta last night. To be honest, it could have been an old wine bar in London and it had that cosy, European atmosphere that slotted me straight in. I met some friends of friends and everyone is so friendly. They immediately invite you to the next party and so it continues.... It's true what they say about Latinos. They really can move in any context, even standing around an intimate setting. Their hips don't lie.